A DRIVE INTO HISTORY
THE DRIVE FROM THE
WEST SIDE OF "BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK" TO CANDELARIA ON
HIGHWAY 170 OR AS IT IS CALLED "THE OLD RIVER ROAD" IS
INDEED A DRIVE INTO HISTORY.
THE FIRST TIME I DROVE THE OLD RIVER ROAD I DIDN'T KNOW
IT'S HISTORY. SO WHEN I GOT HOME I STARTED LOOKING FOR INFORMATION ABOUT IT. I
WENT TO THE LIBRARY AND DID SOME RESEARCH. WHAT I FOUND OUT MADE ME WANT TO GO
BACK AND DRIVE THAT STRETCH OF ROAD FROM BIG BEND PARK TO PERSIDIO AGAIN. A FEW
YEARS LATER JOHNNIE AND I DID GO BACK AND MAKE THIS DRIVE AGAIN.
THIS ROAD HAS ITS ROOTS IN THE DISTANT PAST. IT STARTED
OUT AS A FOOT TRAIL ALONG THE NORTH BANK OF THE RIO GRANDE RIVER. AT ONE TIME IT
WAS CALLED THE "CHIHUAHUA TRAIL." INDIANS AND MEXICANS WALKED THE TRAIL ALONG
THE RIVER,
LATER AS HORSE TRAFFIC BECAME MORE PREDOMINANT, THE
TRAIL WAS BETTER DEFINED. BY 1773 A SPANISH FORT HAD BEEN BUILT ON THE TRAIL AND
THE TRAIL HAD BEEN WIDENED INTO A WAGON TRAIL. THE SPANISH FORT WAS KNOWN AS EL
FORTIN DE SAN JOSE AT LA JUNTA.
THE FORT WAS ABANDONED IN 1810 AND THE STRUCTURE WAS
UNOCCUPIED UNTIL JUAN BUSTILLOS TOOK IT AS HIS HOME IN 1830. BY 1848 BEN LEATON
HAD BOUGHT EL FORTIN FROM BUSTILLOS AND ESTABLISHED FORT LEATON AS HIS HOME,
TRADING POST AND PRIVATE FORT.
DURING THAT YEAR AN EXPEDITION LED BY TEXAS RANGER JACK
HAYS TO FIND A PRACTICLE ROAD FROM SAN ANTONIO TO EL PASO SPENT TEN DAYS AT FORT
LEATON. BUT BECAUSE OF INDIAN ACTIVITY IN THE AREA, THE EXPEDITION TURNED BACK
TO SAN ANTONIO.
BECAUSE OF ITS DESOLATE LOCATION AND THE CONSTANT
THREAT OF INDIAN ATTACK, FORT LEATON OFFERED MUCH NEEDED FRONTIER DEFENSE. THE
PRIVATE BASTION WAS THE ONLY FORTIFICATION ON THE AMERICAN SIDE OF THE RIO
GRANDE BETWEEN EAGLE PASS AND EL PASO.
THERE IS NO RECORD OF ANY INDIAN ATTACK ON FORT LEATON.
THE REASON MAY BE FOUND IN AN ACCUSATION MADE BY THE MEXICAN INSPECTOR FOR THE
MILITARY COLONIES AT EL PASO DEL NORTE. EMILIO LANGBERG ACCUSED LEATON OF
TRADING GUNS TO INDIANS FOR HORSES THEY STOLE IN MEXICO. SUCH ILLEGAL TRADING
WITH THE INDIANS MIGHT HAVE GAINED HIM THEIR FAVOR AND PROTECTED HIS FORT FROM
ATTACK
FROM 1900 UNTIL 1920 THE ROAD WAS PATROLLED BY THE U.
S. BORDER PATROL ON HORSEBACK. ELMER KEITH WAS ONE OF THOSE BORDER PATROLMEN. BY
1950 HE HAD BECOME A FAMOUS WRITER AND CONTRIBUTED LOTS OF ARTICLES TO GUN AND
HUNTING MAGAZINES. IN HIS BOOKS HE TOLD OF MANY EXPERIENCES HE HAD ON THE
BORDER.
WHEN JOHNNIE AND I TRAVELED THE ROAD IN THE EARLY
1980'S IT WAS A LITTLE TWO LANE BLACK TOP ROAD. IT RAN THROUGH SOME VERY ROUGH
AND DESOLATE COUNTRY. FOR A WHILE IT WOULD BE DOWN ON THE BANK OF THE RIVER.
THEN IT WOULD GO UP A SHARP HILL AND BE 500 OR 600 FEET ABOVE THE RIVER. ON THE
OPPOSITE SIDE FROM THE RIVER THERE WERE MOUNTAINS OVER A MILE HIGH.
QUITE OFTEN I WOULD STOP AND GET OUT OF THE PICKUP TO
EXPLORE SOME RAVINE OR HILLSIDE. IT WAS IN ONE OF THESE RAVINES THAT I FOUND A
FOSSILIZED DINOSAUR EGG. BUT THAT’ S A
WHOLE NOTHER STORY FOR A DIFFERENT TIME.
WHEN WE CAME TO OLD FORT LEATON WE STOPPED TO LOOK
AROUND. BY THIS TIME THE STATE HAD MADE A STATE HISTORICAL SITE OF IT AND WAS
PRESERVING IT. INSIDE THE WALLS OF THE FORT THEY HAD ONE OF THE TWO WHEELED
CARTS THAT BEN LEATON USED TO HAUL HIS SUPPLIES FROM PRESIDIO TO HIS FORT. THE
WHEELS ON THIS CART WERE 6 FEET TALL.
EVENTUALLY JOHNNIE AND I WENT ON TO PRESIDIO AND THEN
NORTH TO MARFA TO SEE THE MARFA LIGHTS. BUT THAT’ S
A WHOLE NOTHER STORY FOR A DIFFERENT TIME ALSO.
2003 BY LOREN MOORE
Tune ~ 500 miles away from home
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